With its countless legends, breathtaking peaks and pristine wilderness, Kyrgyzstan is a perfect destination for trekking and delving into natural mysteries. One of our favorite hikes leads to the mysterious Merzbacher Lake, nestled on the Inylchek Glacier just kilometres from the legendary Khan Tengri and Pobeda peaks.

Situated at 3,500 metres altitude, where the north and south branches of the Inylchek Glacier meet, Merzbacher Lake is known worldwide for the enigma it holds: this vast glacial lake drains suddenly one to two times each year, revealing perfectly preserved white icebergs.

Magnificent, mysterious and monstrous

Discovered in 1903 by German geographer and mountaineer Gottfried Merzbacher, it continues to attract explorers and scientists today, all seeking to understand the mechanisms behind this phenomenon. During his first expedition towards the majestic Khan Tengri Peak (6,995 metres, or 7,010 metres including the glacier), crossing the South Inylchek Glacier, Merzbacher spotted a large mountain lake brimming with water on the way up. Yet three days later on the return journey, the lake had emptied entirely, exposing terrifying blocks of ice. He returned the following year to observe it full once more: this is when he realised the drainage was annual and systematic. Other expeditions witnessed the phenomenon firsthand, testifying to a rapid, unexpected, monstrous, deafening and terrifying emptying. Some even claim the glacier threatened to detach itself!

The phenomenon remains misunderstood by science today. The lake, which reaches approximately 3.5 km long and 1.2 km wide, drains abruptly once it fills. Several theories have been proposed: the ice blocks serving as a dam give way and release the water; the water deforms the ice, which cracks and opens fissures; or perhaps the water is sucked into a canyon beneath the glacier...

Regardless, the phenomenon attracts many curious visitors, though witnessing it is exceptionally rare. This typically occurs mid-August each year, though recently it has been happening earlier, in July. Some mountaineers claim that in recent years, the lake has drained in July, refilled, and then drained again in late August… while science suggests the lake only fills once annually in spring. The water disappears somewhere beneath the glacier before rejoining the rivers.

It takes only a few hours for the lake to empty: then the glacier trembles and comes alive with terrifying sounds, and the Sary Jaz and Inylchek rivers surge dangerously.

Getting to Merzbacher Lake

Merzbacher Lake sits in an extremely remote region of Kyrgyzstan, to say the least. Tucked into mountains in the border zone between Kyrgyzstan, China and Kazakhstan, it lies far from any settlement. Locals do not venture here: only a handful of seasoned mountaineers know the region well. It is home to two magnificent mountains: Khan Tengri, considered the most beautiful of the 7,000-metre peaks, and Pobeda or Jengish Chokusu, the most challenging of the 7,000-metre summits.

To reach the lake, you must venture onto the imposing South Inylchek Glacier, one of the world's most renowned. Surrounded by pristine mountains exceeding 6,000 metres, stretching 60 metres long and reaching 540 metres in thickness, the glacier itself is an attraction worth every effort. You can walk on its moraine while navigating the immense crevasses. It is also the world's fastest-moving glacier; you'll hear it in the sounds that break the mountain silence at night.

Expect roughly four days of trekking to reach the lake: you will need to traverse the glacier across its width. You can then turn back, or continue to the Khan Tengri base camp to observe this « Lord of Spirits ». Either way, you will need a border permit to see this beauty.

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