While Almaty is no longer the capital of Kazakhstan, it remains unquestionably the cultural heart of the nation, adorned with magnificent historic monuments and around thirty museums. Known as "the city of a thousand colours", it comes as little surprise that one of its principal attractions, the stunning Zenkov Cathedral, also called the Cathedral of the Ascension, has likely inspired this poetic nickname.

Take time to discover this majestic Russian Orthodox place of worship that stands watch over the city from its impressive 46-metre height within the Panfilov Park of the 28 Guardians.

A Glimpse into History

Built at the request of the Bishop of Turkestan and Tashkent between 1904 and 1907, the Cathedral of the Ascension is remarkable in many ways. It stands as one of the world's tallest wooden structures and the world's highest wooden Orthodox temple. It was also the first building in Semirechye (the former name of south-eastern Kazakhstan) to feature reinforced concrete foundations, the first to rise to such a significant height in this seismic region, and the first to be equipped with ventilation and evacuation systems.

While a long-standing rumour claims this cathedral was built "without a single nail", metal was actually used extensively to reinforce all its structures: the bell tower trunk and dome drums were literally stitched together with metal fasteners, the central drum frame secured with steel plates, all rafters reinforced with metal ties and clamps. Though the wooden walls are indeed not nailed, they do contain bolts.

It was through the initiative of Lieutenant-Colonel Andrei Pavlovich Zenkov, the engineer overseeing its construction, that the cathedral became one of the most innovative structures of its time. It is in tribute to this ingenious builder that it is also called Zenkov Cathedral. This honour was well-deserved, as it was surely its solid foundations and reinforced structure that allowed it to survive the devastating January 1911 earthquake, which largely destroyed the city.

Confiscated by the state during the Soviet period, the cathedral was transformed into the Central Museum of the Kazakh Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic. Its bell tower was also used to broadcast the first radio transmissions in Alma-Ata (Almaty). It was only in April 1995 that it regained its original function, transferred to the Russian Orthodox Church "for indefinite and free use" by decree of Kazakhstan's President, Nursultan Nazarbayev. It has since undergone restoration work.

Visiting Zenkov Cathedral

Nestled within the verdant Panfilov Park of the 28 Guardians, Zenkov Cathedral rises above the treetops, displaying its domes, spires and bell tower against the backdrop of majestic mountains. You will be enchanted by its striking pastel colours, its glazed tiles glittering in the sunlight, and its ornate lintels adorned with delicate friezes.

But do not limit yourself to admiring merely its exterior. Upon entering, you will discover its three aisles—the central one dedicated to the Ascension of Jesus Christ, the southern to the Annunciation to the Holy Virgin, and the final to Faith, Hope, Love and their mother Sophia, the patron saints of Semirechye—and you will be astounded by the splendour of its magnificent gilded iconostasis, embellished with precious stones and pearls, its walls covered in frescoes and painted icons and its stained glass windows. You may also be surprised to discover that its central dome, resting on pillars, has a flat ceiling.

If you have the opportunity to attend a religious service (daily masses are held), you will observe believers crossing themselves and bowing their heads before the most venerated icons, particularly those of the Virgin Mary and Saint Nicholas. You will be moved by the beauty of the liturgical chants.

Note that visiting this splendid cathedral requires appropriate dress (no hats, caps or beanies for men; knees and shoulders covered for women). Women must also wear a veil in Orthodox churches.