
The Juma Mosque
The Juma Mosque
At the heart of Itchan Kala in Khiva, the Juma Mosque features 213 carved wooden pillars beneath a flat roof. A rare architectural type in Central Asia.
The Juma Mosque (Friday Mosque) stands as one of the most distinctive monuments in the historic centre of Khiva, Itchan Kala, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Lacking both a dome and a columned courtyard, it follows a rectangular plan with a flat roof supported by over 200 carved wooden columns. Its construction dates back to the 10th century.
Why Visit the Juma Mosque
- A rare architectural type: the hypostyle mosque model from 7th-8th century Arabia, now vanished from Central Asia.
- A forest of 213 pillars in carved wood, around twenty of which date to the 10th-12th centuries.
- A pleasant visit even in peak summer: the interior, shaded and ventilated through roof openings, remains cool.
- A central location within Itchan Kala, accessible with the combined ticket for the fortified city.
History
The earliest mentions of the Juma Mosque appear in the works of al-Muqaddas (Maqdisi) and al-Istakhri, two 10th-century geographers and travellers. The building visitors see today is not, however, the original structure.
In the late 18th century, Abdurahman Mehtar ordered the mosque demolished and rebuilt according to the same architectural principle. Several columns and elements from earlier buildings were reused, explaining the great heterogeneity of the pillars visible today: some date to the 10th century, others to the 19th. The last major restoration took place in 1996, with the replacement of the most worn pillars.
What to See
A Rare Hypostyle Architecture
The mosque revives the style of 7th and 8th-century Arabian mosques, a model now extinct in Central Asia. The building measures 55 metres long by 46 metres wide. Its roof rests on 213 pillars arranged in 17 rows. Openings in the roof provide both lighting and ventilation for the prayer hall.
The Columns and Their Inscriptions
The pillars constitute the mosque's main interest. Four columns bear naskhi script, in a style close to that of the Bambanai Mosque. Twenty-one columns, dated to the 10th-12th centuries, are engraved with Kufic inscriptions and attest to the site's antiquity. Pillars created between the 18th and 19th centuries are recognisable by their floral motifs characteristic of Khiva.
The Mihrab
The mosque has three entrances pierced through brick walls. The mihrab, set into the centre of the south wall, indicates the direction of Mecca. Its ceiling is slightly raised above the rest of the hall. The pillars flanking it are decorated with motifs of trees, shrubs, irises and rosehips, created between the late 18th and early 20th centuries. On either side stand two niches and two marble plaques.
The Minaret and Kai Kalyan Madrasa
On the north side rises the minaret, built in the 18th century to replace a tower destroyed the previous century. It reaches 32.5 metres in height on a base of 6.2 metres in diameter. Its summit is crowned with a dome and a lantern featuring eight arches, adorned with marnas (stalactite cornices).
Facing the north-west corner stands the Kai Kalyan Madrasa, a former secondary school and Muslim theological institute, completing the monumental ensemble.
Practical Information
Entry to the Juma Mosque is included in the general Itchan Kala ticket, which grants access to most monuments in the fortified city. This ticket is typically purchased at the western gate (Ota Darvoza). Expect moderate pricing for the entire site and approximately 30 to 45 minutes for the mosque alone. Opening hours follow those of Itchan Kala during daytime; it is best to check locally or with your guide the day before your visit.
When to Visit
Khiva is ideally visited from spring through early autumn. April-May and September-October offer pleasant temperatures and favourable lighting for photography in Itchan Kala. Summer is very hot and dry in Khorezm, but the Juma Mosque is precisely one of the few shaded and ventilated spaces in the city: a visit proves enjoyable even in peak heat. Winter is cold but rarely crowded, allowing you to enjoy the site without throngs.
How to Get There
The Juma Mosque lies approximately 5 minutes on foot from the Kalta-Minor minaret, along the main axis connecting the western gate (Ota Darvoza) to the eastern gate (Polvon Darvoza) of Itchan Kala. Once through the western rampart, simply follow the paved central street: the mosque is recognisable by its massive minaret on the right. The entire fortified city is walkable.
Nearby Attractions
The Juma Mosque is part of a broader journey through Itchan Kala and the Khorezm region. To extend your visit, explore other major sites across Central Asia:
- Hazrati Imam Square, another major centre of Central Asian Islam.
- Afrasiab Museum, dedicated to the ancient history of Samarkand.
- Cholpon Ata Petroglyphs, testimony to a far more ancient heritage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Frequently asked questions
No. Entry is included in the general Itchan Kala ticket, available at the western gate (Ota Darvoza). This ticket also grants access to most other monuments in the fortified city.
Allow approximately 30 to 45 minutes to observe the pillars, inscriptions and mihrab in detail. If you climb to the top of the minaret, add about twenty minutes.
Yes, access to the Juma Mosque's minaret is generally possible for a small additional fee. The interior staircase is narrow and lighting is limited; best avoided if you suffer from claustrophobia.
The mosque remains a place of worship. Clothing that covers the shoulders and knees is recommended. A headscarf is not mandatory for female visitors, but is appreciated.
Spring (April-May) and early autumn (September-October) offer the best conditions. Summer is extremely hot, but the mosque's interior is among the coolest places in Itchan Kala.
Plan Your Journey
The Juma Mosque fits naturally into an itinerary centred on the Silk Road and the fortified cities of Central Asia. To craft a trip combining Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand, explore our travel ideas for Central Asia and let our advisors tailor the programme to your wishes.
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